Baker Manufacturing Company Monitor^® Magnum Yard Hydrant

Proper Installation is essential for the yard hydrant to operate properly.

1. Dig hole for hydrant approximately 2 feet in diameter and 1 foot deeper than required bury depth. Check with local codes to insure the hydrant is installed at the proper frost line bury depth.
2. Flush the water supply piping before connecting hydrant to clear any gravel, foreign particles, or other debris that may have collected in the piping system. Baker will not warrant or accept any responsibility if the water supply piping is not flushed prior to the installation of the hydrant.
3. Install hydrant making sure there are provisions for drainage below the frost line. Use wrenches on the water supply fitting and the brass valve body of the hydrant only. If wrench is used on hydrant pipe, damage may occur which could affect operation.
4. IMPORTANT – If hydrant is buried in ground, use a brick, stone, rebar, or length of pipe to help support hydrant. Failure to provide adequate support could put a strain on the water supply pipe.
5. IMPORTANT – Before back filling excavation site, turn water supply on and check hydrant connections for leaks. Verify that the hydrant flows when opened and drains out of drain hole when shut off. Baker will not accept any responsibility for digging up the hydrant if the installer fails to flush out the water supply line before attaching the hydrant to water supply line AND fails to check the hydrant for proper operation before backfilling the trench.Warning: If the ground freezes at or below the bottom of this hydrant, product warranty is void and damage due to improper installation or act of nature is not covered by manufacturer.
6. Provisions must be made to allow the water to drain from the hydrant drain hole each time the hydrant is closed.
   1. Fill bottom of hole with 1/2” gravel to a minimum of 3” above the brass drain valve body, to insure proper drainage. Plastic sheeting placed over the gravel will prevent seepage of dirt into the gravel when back filling.
   2. If hydrant is installed in a pit, the pit must have an open bottom or some form of drainage.
   3. If hydrant is buried in the ground, a few tiles can be laid in gravel or coarse material to form a field system for the drain.
   4. If hydrant is installed inside a structure or concrete driveway, connect copper drain tubing to the 1/8” NPT drain hole and dig a remote drain field outside of the structure for the drain to empty into. Without this remote piping drain field, the water from the hydrant drain may percolate up to the surface around or near the hydrant and will damage the floor surface or cause muddy areas around hydrant.
   5. If the area where the hydrant is located is low lying or has a tendency to have standing water, a larger drain field or pit will be required to provide the hydrant a place to drain.

   Warning: Damage to hydrant caused by improper drain field, will null and void warranty.

Hydrant Tips

• Never leave a hose attached to hydrant after use. This will prevent the hydrant from draining properly and will cause the hydrant to freeze.WARNING: If garden hose is left on in the winter time, warranty is null and void.
• If a vacuum breaker is installed on the hydrant, make sure it is a total automatic design. The automatic vacuum breaker will allow air to enter the hydrant allowing the water in the hydrant to drain. This will prevent the hydrant from freezing. Many vacuum breakers sold are not automatic, they are manual in operation.WARNING: Do not use manual type vacuum breakers on your hydrant. If other than a total automatic design is used, warranty is null and void.
• Water pressure to the hydrant should be regulated to no more than 100 PSI. Higher pressures will accelerate wear and may cause leakage that will saturate the ground and drain field and prevent the hydrant from draining properly. If the hydrant is not allowed to drain properly, it can freeze, cause damage to itself, cause flooding, and loss of water. A normal operating pressure should be 30-60 PSI.

1. Turn off water supply to Hydrant.
2. Open Hydrant to relieve any pressure that may be built up and to drain water.
3. Slowly loosen the set screw on the hydrant head collar.
4. After the set screw has been loosened, lift on hydrant head to remove head and wet ppe assembly.
5. Using a strap wrench to hold the lower coupling, remove spool turning it counterclockwise when viewing from bottom of spool, and discard old spool.
6. Apply a bead of silicone RTV, which is NSF or ANSI rated for contact with foods, such as Dow Corning 732, to the replacement spool threads.
7. Install new spool into lower coupling while holding coupling with strap wrench, tighten until spool flange contacts coupling.
8. Install head assembly and wet pipe assembly back into stand pipe (which must be completely drained).
9. With the handle down in the closed position, bottom out spool in valve body and tighten set screw in hydrant head collar. Make sure the collar is perpendicular with the stand pipe. Tighten set screw to 25-75 in. lb of torque. Do not over tighten.

1. Turn off water supply to Hydrant
2. Open Hydrant to relieve any pressure that may be uilt up and to drain water.
3. Slowly loosen the set screw on the hydrant head collar.
4. After the set screw has been loosened, lift on hydrant head to remove head and wet pipe assembly.
5. Using a strap wrench to hold wet pipe, remove spool/wet pipe assembly by turning it counterclockwise when viewing from bottom of spool, and discard old spool/wet pipe assembly.
6. Apply a bead of silicone RTV, which is NSF or ANSI rated for contact with foods, such as Dow Corning 732, to the threads on top of wet pipe assembly.
7. Install new spool/wet pipe assembly into head by turning it clockwise when viewing from bottom of spool. Tighten until upper thread bottoms in hydrant head.
8. Install head assembly and wet pipe assembly back into stand pipe (which must be completely drained).
9. With the handle down in the closed position, bottom out spool in valve body and tighten set screw in hydrant head collar. Make sure the collar is perpendicular with the stand pipe. Tighten set screw to 25-75 in.lb torque. Do not over tighten.

* Add appropriate bury depth after this part number (example: -1 for 1 foot or -2 for 2 foot etc.)

** Add “LF” to end of part number for Lead Free*** version

***Contains less than 0.25% lead as required by AB1953 and NSF/ANSI 372

The absence of adjustments, plus the unique construction of your Monitor® Hydrant makes maintenance very simple and easy. The only parts requiring replacement, under normal conditions, will be the three O-rings. No large pipe wrenches needed.

TO REPLACE O-RINGS

1. Turn off the water supply
2. Loosen the hex screw in the collar
3. Pull out PVC wet pipe
4. Replace O-rings
5. Apply a thin coat of vaseline on the O-rings
6. Hydrant stand pipe must be completely drained
7. Install wet pipe back in hydrant stand pipe
8. Handle must be in closed position
9. Bottom out the head casting on the stand pipe
10. Rotate the head casting outlet clockwise looking down on the head to the direction you want it
11. Make sure collar is perpendicular with stand pipe
12. Tighten hex screw – Do Not Overtighten